Self Drafted Pants - with a nod to Style Arc Melissa

Wow, who could have predicted that photographing something for your sewing blog could take longer than sewing the garment itself? Apart from finding a time when both me and my photographer (my 13 year old)  were available, I had to make sure  I came straight from the blow drier to the camera, or else the revolting humidity we have around here would turn my hair to fuzz-ball. Whew, I think I just about made it.
Anyway, here it is, my first make on La Sartora. I need basics (or "cake" as it has come to be called in sewing blogland) , and what more basic item is there than a pair of black pants? The pattern was drafted from my pants block, based on the Style Arc Melissa pant. But really, how much more classic can these pants be? They are a wide legged pant, yoke pockets, fly front, front pleats and faux pocket flaps on the back. They are made from a textured black cotton I picked up at Remnant Warehouse.
I used the yoke pocket piece front from the Melissa pant which has the pocket facing and yoke piece as one piece which you cut on the fold. Like this, because it gets rid of a lot of bulk.
To turn dart to pleats on my front pieces, I slashed through the darts to about the knee, and spread at the waistline 2cm for each pleat. The pleats were a little modest for my taste. Next time I'll  spread the slash wider at least 3 cm.
I used petersham ribbon to face the waistband. This was the first time I'd done this, and I am really happy with the result. I've generally avoided waistbands, because no interfacing I've tried can give a nice firm finish. My waistbands would always wrinkle up. This one doesn't. I'm happy about that.
I applied interfacing to the fly underlap, the fly, along the pocket edges, the waistband and to the hem area. To strengthen the seams, I applied 6mm twill tape to the outseam between the waistline and the hip, and to the entire crotch seam.
The obligatory back view below. the leftpocket flap could do with another good press, I see. And I might just check those hems again. Maybe the right is a little higher than the other, or it could be the way I am standing. Also, I've recently been seeing a physio about my uneven pelvis - maybe that's throwing things out a little as well.


I'm wearing these pants with Burda 2008-07-103 (I think). This is actually one of the first tops I ever made, and it is still in regular rotation. Made from handkerchief linen from

So there it is. My first make. Now I just have to figure out how to photograph these things better. Stay tuned.


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