Fit help requested - the kimono sleeve

Well, I'm into the next project and I've come up with a head scratcher. The pattern is Maria Denmark's Edith dress, which features a short kimono sleeve. I've pin basted the dress so far, and the stumper I have with this dress is the folds that go from armpit to shoulder. I've marked where the folds are in black.
I have scoured my fit books, and the net, for ideas, but have come up empty handed, except for one comment that such folds are the nature of kimono sleeves. I've already scooped out a bit in the armhole, which has helped a bit, but not enough.

Here's the back - same sort of folds as in front.

Anyone with any wisdom to share on this? Is there anything I can do at this stage, or is this part of the deal with these sort of sleeves?


  1. Hello La Sartora. Nice pattern! I hadn't seen it before. Kimono sleeves should skim, not pull and drag lines mean there is ease lacking somewhere either horizontally or vertically.
    The problem could be one of three things. 1. The armhole opening is still not deep enough and the material is pulling because of this. or 2.You need a full bust adjustment to give some more ease across this area, or
    3. You need more ease at the side seams at the armpit because the drag lines also occur at the back. Comparing measurements of the pattern in the flat to corresponding body areas should show you where you need more ease.
    It's a very pretty dress and I hope I have helped a little.

    1. Hi Valerie, Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
      I've already done a 2cm FBA on this. Maybe I should have gone for a bit more. I'll scoop out the armhole a tad more and fiddle with the side seams, and see how it goes. It may not be perfect, but at least I'll know what to go on with.
      Thanks again!

  2. Lovely fabric. I'd concur that kimono sleeves should be fairly loose and Valerie's comments as to fix seem focused and apt. Good luck.

  3. Thanks Felicity. Hopefully you'll see the result on the blog before too long.


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