MBM - Vogue 8805

This make has been like a pebble in my shoe for so long, hovering around the sewing table saying "Make me, make me!" for a good six months.
The first time I got the pattern pieces out of the envelope was when I thought this would be a good dress to wear to a high school reunion. That was in September. Then I got sick, and wore my black Colette Peony dress instead. Since then, it has sat there, waiting for me to locate the right fabric for a summer version of this dress. This took me a while.
I thought it had it sorted after I made my Burda black linen dress. I really thought the remnant of lightweight black linen I had left would cover the lower band of the dress. After I bought the red and mauve linen, and set to work, I realised I didn't. I didn't really want to make a narrower lower band, which was one option. So I returned the pattern to the envelope and let the project simmer for a while.
It wasn't until I was idly flipping through a recent Threads magazine, that I had my "a-ha!" moment. |(And don't a-ha moments come when you are idly flipping through magazines or netsurfing?) There was an article on slot seams that I thought would be perfect for this project.  Finally, all systems were go.
Here's the dress:

This pattern is a simple make, really, so I would recommend it to relative sewing novices. The pattern provides separate pattern pieces for each cup size, which gets around having to make bust adjustments. I made used a C cup piece, according to the Vogue measurements, although I normally wear a D cup. It seems fine to me. Apart from that, I lengthened the middle section by 5 cm, my standard length adjustment.
As for the slot seams, here's a close-up shot of how they look:

 
Yeah, subtle. A bit more subtle than I envisaged. I wanted to see a bit more of the black showing through. The black linen is there, all right. You just have to squint to see it.
How did I make the slot seams, anyway? I read a few sources, including the Threads article, and came up with my mash-up method. If you're interested, here it is (this is as much for my benefit, as anything else, as an aide memoire). Okay:
 
  1. Cut seam allowances slightly wider than normal, and pink them.
  2. Prepare linen strips to go under the slots, at 1 1/2 inches. Pink those too. I made bias strips for the top seam, as it is curved. Strips made on the straight grain for the lower seam.
  3. Sewed the seams together with a machine baste stitch, then snipped them ever 5-6 stitches to encourage them apart somewhat (this didn't work).
  4. Placed the fabric strips under the seams, glued them down with No More Pins glue. Do this again!!
  5. Top stitch on the right side.
  6. Remove basting stitches.
Voila!
 
Despite the slot seam experiment not working out as I had hoped, I am quite happy with this project.
 
An aside: this project reminded me how rubbish I am at certain types of handsewing. I made the slit at the back, covered a button with red linen, and proceeded to make a hand sewn loop as the button hole. Three times I did this, three times I ripped it out because no matter how slowly and methodically  I did this, the loop was lumpy-bumpy. In the end, I just used a hook and eye. I'm rubbish at sewing them on too, but no one has to see the lack of handiwork on those, do they?
 
 

Comments

  1. Nice idea to use slot seams for this dress. It looks great!

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  2. I was just admiring this same pattern made up in black and white on someone else's blog. It's a very flattering dress given there's not much shaping to the body. I like the idea of slot seams but they seem like a lot of work!

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    Replies
    1. It seems to me that the skirt is slightly pegged, which I think might save it from looking like a sack. Making slot seams probably doubled the construction time on this simple dress, but I figured that if there was ever a time to try them out, it would be on a simple make like this.

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  3. Love these colours together and your necklace matches beautifully.

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