MBM - Maria Denmark Pernille Pencil Dress
I had a very unusual experience when I prepared to make Maria Denmark's Pernille Pencil Dress, a few weeks ago. As usual I consulted the web to see what other sewist's experience had been of making this pattern. And for the first time since I started sewing, I'd come across a pattern that no one had sewn and blogged. Nothing even on Pattern Review. It was mildly disconcerting.
Since then , this post has appeared. Before that not much at all, apart from the Maria Denmark site.
The Pernille Dress appealed to me straight away. It is designed for ponti knit. It lacks a waist seam (I've always been short-waisted, but as I get older my bustline and waistline are getting closer and closer. Waist seams just feel uncomfortable). It is a raglan sleeve dress, with a boat neck, back contour darts for shape and a pegged hem.
Instead of basting this pattern together to check the fit, I subjected myself to the pin fit. This was my mother's preferred method of fitting patterns when I grew up. She'd make flat pattern adjustments, cut the fabric, then she would pin up pieces, with the pins on the inside and make me try it on. Talk about an instruments of torture. Being scratched by dozens of pins at once - yikes! I don't think I've ever come across anyone in sewblogland who talks about the pin fit.(Palmer and Pletsch do a wimp's pin fit - the pins are on the outside.) I wonder if it was a very unusual experience? I brought this up with mum the other day, and asked her if she's ever made a muslin. She said only once in the last 50 years - for my wedding dress, before she cut the duchesse silk satin my dress was made of. Anyway, trying this dress on when it was held together with pins brought back a lot of memories I'd rather forget!
I'd cut myself some extra width on the seam allowance for insurance, and decided to allow an extra 1/4" in all the seams after the pin fit. (I'd also added length to the dress and sleeves)
After all that, though, I still got a bit of rippling around the neckline - not terrible but not great either. So what would I know?:)
I sewed this dress up in two short sessions on Friday and Saturday, and wore it Saturday night to a family function in which I sat in a car for two hours, and then ate dinner. I was perfectly comfortable all night. If I was still a corporate desk jockey, I'd make this pattern up in a few colours so I could be pj comfy all day.
I don't wear dresses a lot, so I probably won't make this dress again for a while, but when I do I will probably take a bit of length out of the sleeve.