MBM - Sewaholic Granville fitted shirt




Every day is Casual Friday in  my job. In winter, this means I normally wear jeans, a long sleeve t-shirt and jacket of some sort. It wasn’t long before I started to think of the long sleeve shirt option as a way of mixing things up a bit.
I haven’t had much history with the long-sleeve shirt in my wardrobe, in either the me-made or RTW form. Well, nothing at all in the me-made form.  I bought three classic long sleeved shirts from Thomas Pink in London in the mid nineties. I still have them, but rarely  never wear them, despite the wonderful fabric and finish, and the classy French cuffs. Their shape decrees they be tucked in, and being of the short waisted persuasion, I’ve never felt all that comfortable with tucked in tops, even when I was at my skinniest.
I bought the Grainline Archer when it first came out, but haven’t gone there because on reflection I decided I really needed a fitted shirt . The boxy cut of the Archer wouldn’t be all that a great a look on my Cello body type, at least not in a cotton.(It might be ok in a crepe de chine, or something similarly flowing)
Then, last year I bought Vogue 8689 , in a Spotlight $5 sale, but when I researched the pattern I found a lot of  lukewarm reviews on it.  Mainly, issues with the bust fit. So no go there.
Then Sewaholic brought out the Granville: at last,  a shirt pattern  that ticked all the boxes. Onwards and upwards!
FABRIC
This is a cotton lawn I bought on a trip to Bali. I had passed this fabric wholesaler on a street not far from where we were staying for nearly a week before I realised what it was. My fabric shop antennae weren’t working very well there it seems. If you are ever in Bali, it was on the corner of Jalan Nakula and Jalan Legian in Seminyak. It had a security guard post out front, not something I’d never seen in a fabric shop before. It mainly stocked brightly coloured rayons, but there were a few nice cottons to be had at very nice prices!
FIT
I really have enjoyed the Sewaholic patterns I’ve made in the past, and this one was no exception. Sewaholic positions itself as a pattern company with the pear-shaped figure in mind, but I’ve never found difficulty with fitting their patterns. For sure, I always go down a size in the hip measurement with Sewaholic (in every other pattern company I go up a size), but apart from that, no issues. So, if the pear shaped thing puts you off Sewaholic – don’t let it!
The fit of this shirt was pretty straightforward. I made an FBA, and dropped the bust dart. I added 5cm length to the body and  3cm to the sleeve.
The sleeve fit warrants special mention. I found it drafted especially slim. I normally add width to the bicep – generally 2.5cm. This time after measuring, I added 4cm to the bicep and the elbow area, and boy am I glad I did. It could probably stand to be even a little wider. There is no pleat at the cuff area, I’m wondering if I should add width and a pleat in future versions to address this? Any thoughts?
The main reason I bought this pattern were princess seams  in the back which made fitting my swayback a breeze. Love the princess seam.
My favourite point of pickiness with patterns is wearing ease. I'm pleased to report that the ease on this pattern is spot on! Go, Sewaholic, you rock!!

SEWING
This project was only the second time  I’ve attempted a collar and stand, and the first time I’d give  a placket and cuff a go. I did some research and redrafted the collar and cuff, so that the seams were offset and took away layers of fabric from the corners you need to have nice and pointy. I’ll show you what I mean in a future post.
I also enrolled in the Classic Tailored Shirt class on Craftsy, and adopted some of the methods Pam Howard outlined there – mainly sewing the yoke and flat felling  some of the seams. I didn’t flat fell the sleeve seam on this one, but in future versions I’ll attempt one.
I give myself a pass mark on sewing this shirt with all it’s fiddly parts – there are one or two instances of slightly dodgy sewing, but the small busy print does a great job of hiding what needs to be hidden! There’s a tip for first timers in the shirt making game.
I’m very happy with how this has turned out, as my first foray into shirtmaking. There is no getting around the fact that shirtmaking is time-consuming but the upside of having no particular wardrobe gaps to fill is that I could take my time, which  I did. An hour or so sewing on most days over two weeks got me to the finish line.


Edited later to add: more versions of the Granville here and here.

Comments

  1. This and the Oakridge are my new favourite shirt patterns. I love your version.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for reminding me of the Oakridge. I'll have to go to the website to have a closer look. If it has back princess seams like this one, I'm in.

      Delete
  2. I'm very impressed with your Granville Shirt Paola. The fit looks perfect and the fabric is lovely. I must try this pattern.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thank you - I think you'll like the Granville a lot.

    ReplyDelete

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