Trouble fitting pants? Here's a clue perhaps why

My pants front block pattern at left. Style Arc Melissa Pant front at right
So I need some basic black pants. Style Arc's Melissa has front slant pockets, a fly front, a pleated front and faux back pocket flaps, just the ticket. Even though I have a custom pant block, I thought I'd give a Style Arc pattern a go, mainly because I couldn't be bothered fiddling around with my block pattern to incorporate the design of the Melissa. Well, after comparing the Melissa pant front and back I'm not so sure. I think if I want to get the fit I want it may be quicker to just get down to altering the block.
Check out the picture of the two front patterns above.Try and ignore the overall shape , just look at the crotch curve. My front has a crotch curve that is almost a 90 degree angle. The Melissa pattern has a gentler front curve. I can imagine  a lot of fabric around the front crotch trying to go somewhere.
Melissa pant pattern back at left; My pants back pattern at right.

Things get more interesting with the back pattern. Whoa! Check out the difference between the two crotch curves on this pattern piece! My pattern accommodates my rather rounded, sticky-out rear end. I don't think the Melissa would cope.
Lesson? Paola, you put all that work into making a pants pattern block FOR A REASON. Believe me, getting to that pattern involved a lot of muslin making (3 from memory), blood,sweat and tears. Use it!
This small example also gives a clue as to why so many seamstresses find pants patterns so difficult to fit. You are not only fitting length and width, but through the cross section too. And a glance around any crowd of people will tell you our behinds come in a multitude of shapes! It would be impossible to expect any pattern company to come to grips with so many variations. There's no way around it when it comes to pants: just hard-graft with the muslin!
So my pants will be Style Arc inspired, based on my block, altered by me.


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